My Russian Friend Skala, Continued

Part II: The Dogs of Myths, Legends and Folklore

We humans love to tell a good tale, and invariably there becomes a bit of embellishment along the way, as the teller of the tale adds their own personal touch to the story. But most legends have some truth to them, and one has to ask themselves how important is it to prove all the facts? What about understanding that myths are what they are? Can one have a little faith and go see for oneself and make up one's own mind about what's what? Is this enough? For Gwen, on one hand is my scientific self, and on the other hand is my dreamer self, the soul that searches for the stuff legends are made of.

Here is the science: The Canine Genome has been mapped. According to my last conversation with the Mars Veterinary Institute in the UK there are 132 different breeds of dogs identified to date. But what most of us don't realize is that whether one is a Pug, a Great Dane or a Borzoi, genetically they are 99% identical. That means it is just one percent of the canine genome that distinguishes each 'breed' of dog from the next. One percent. 99% says yes, this is a dog, one percent says they are unique from each other.

The North American and the Russian versions of the history of the dogs that became the Siberian Husky, have elements in common, which are the dogs and elements that are not. And then there is the folklore of the indigenous peoples to the coast of Siberia. Again the common element is the dogs. I decided to step away from debates and fanciful imagination, and look with my own eyes, touch with my own hands and form my own opinions from here. One thing I did learn, however, is that the early dogs were not driven to extinction, but they survived in small villages along the coast of Siberia. And as they had done for hundreds of years before, the native peoples lived their lives around and with these dogs, each depending on the other for survival in one of the harshest climates in the world. Sadly it is modern day that threatens these dogs, as the newer generations have moved away from the type of care of their forefathers that ensured the survival of these dogs. The dogs themselves are uniquely adapted to survive harsh cold climates. Evolution in nature has provided these dogs with a thick double coat, and a layer of sub dermal fat like blubber over their entire body, including their heads. (what I find fascinating is that when these dogs are moved to warmer climates they lose their fat and the density of their coats and in warmer climates they look smaller and slimmer than they did when they were in the severe cold)
But when the conditions became too harsh for even this, the Chukchi brought their dogs into their shelters with them, each providing the other with warmth and companionship. The early accounts of these dogs are full of tales of incredible feats of bravery and leadership. And the early accounts indicate exceptional bonds between these dogs and their drivers. But don't be fooled survival is always first. These dogs were certainly traded. It is said that the Chukchi do not sell their dogs, they are gifted. Whether that is still true today, I do not know. But twenty years ago when John Van Zyle was in Siberia he was gifted Tom.

When I first started talking about these dogs with Russia I was told that these dogs are not well suited for fast sprinting down well groomed trails. These dogs are better suited for finding and breaking trail in harsh conditions, that they go long and steady, conserving their energy. These dogs are hardy, they are stoic and they take what is given them with no fuss, and just get on with it. They are certainly a favorite amongst expeditioners for all of these qualities. One look at their feet confirms this. Feet that closely resemble those of Togo.

Stepping away from the physical, perhaps what struck me the most about these dogs was the aura of peace around them. When we came into the stake-out yard to examine and discuss each dog, each showed their own personalities. Some more reserved, some exuberant, some completely calm, but all interested in checking out the humans. Most stake out yards are a bit crazy at times, but even feeding was accomplished with relative calm. If I have one regret, it is that the clouds of every present and persistent mosquitoes kept me from spending more time out in the dog yard. There is an air of serenity with these dogs that I have yet to find with another group of dogs. That quest for serenity is what sends this dog driver out into the peace of the back country, with a team of sleddogs in escape from a hectic, busy fast paced life.

Here are a few of the dogs below I had the privilege of meeting and spending time with. All except the last photo.

There is Balto and Bonnie,

Their handsome sons Bukha (piebald), Velve (grey), and Anch (black and tan).

Anch was the first Chukotka Sled Dog I met.

Incha (from Inchon) and her daughter Beringa

This handsome youngster is one dog I didn't get to meet. This is Oomki from Neshkam at about 9 months old. He still lives in Siberia.

These dogs made an enormous impact on me. They are not merely myth and fable. Here in the 21st century they exist still. And I have difficulty putting into coherent words what this means to me. But with a lot of help from my friends, one would eventually make a long journey to my house.

Part III to follow